February 08, 2016 3 min read
Where did you grow up?
Southern California, mostly in the Orange County area.
Where are you currently living now?
Del Mar, California (San Diego)
What are your favourite local spots?
The north part of San Diego county has a lot of great bodysurfing spots that I love to explore, specifically between La Jolla and Oceanside. Del Mar is definitely my local favorite though, specifically at 11th Street and 17th Street.
Do you have any other favourite breaks?
A few years ago, I was fortunate enough to bodysurf the super long left known as Pavones in Costa Rica. It is a unique and fantastic wave. I hope to go back there again some day.
What breaks are on your bucket list?
Point Panic, Boomers, and The Wedge
Have you always bodysurfed?
I have loved bodysurfing since I was a little kid, but it's only in the past few years that I've become more serious about spending more time in the water bodysurfing. I get in the water as much as I can so I can keep working on improving my technique, and I've also joined the Del Mar Bodysurfing Club. I remember as a young kid using a flip flop as a handplane to glide along and get some long rides.
Do you ride other surf craft?
I like to ride my bodyboard and paipo when the conditions are right for it. I used to surf a lot more on traditional surfboards, but it's been a while since I have, due to my growing addiction to bodysurfing.
How are bodysurfers viewed in your local line-up?
Most surfers seem puzzled when the see me in the line-up. They often think I'm a surfer who's lost my surfboard. I've even had surfers offer to save me, as if I must need to be rescued because I do not have a surfboard with me!
What do you find cool and inspiring about bodysurfing?
The view from inside the barrel is epic. During a good bodysurfing session, it's a spectacular site that you can experience over and over first hand, while most people never get to see it except in photographs. A super long ride from the outside to the shore, achieved with nothing between your body and the surface of the water as you race toward the beach has no comparison. Ultimately though, it's that freedom to experience of feeling all of the powerful and dynamic aspects of the waves, tides, and currents while being in the ocean that I think is the coolest.
What’s inspiring you in the water right now?
I love watching the other members of the Del Mar Bodysurfing club. They are incredibly inspiring. Each has their own style, techniques, and favorite type of wave that they seek out. I learn so much from watching them.
Where do you hope to take your bodysurfing over the next year?
I want to experience a lot of different conditions to challenge myself, continue to improve my bodysurfing, and for the pure enjoyment of it. That probably means straying away from my local break more often and exploring new places to bodysurf. I hope bodysurfing ultimately takes me back to the finals in some of the local bodysurfing contests again this summer!