April 30, 2015 2 min read
My name is Mathias, I'm 19 years old and I'm French. I live in the Southwest of France near Hossegor. As much to tell you that ocean it's my element.
I practise surfing and bodysurfing. I train hard swimming a lot to be in a good shape. I made competition in surfing but i stopped because of my opinion about surfing. It is more like pleasure. I began the bodysurf at the same time as surfing.
This summer, I was lifeguard in Messanges and I could improve me in bodysurf. This year, I took part in 2 competitions of wich one where I finished second and the other I eliminated in the second round (I was wounded with the knee).
I have Mexican origins and it hapened to go at Mexico. I go there even year. I have already to surfs spot such as Puerto Escondido, La Ticla, Pascuales and many other.
Where did you grow up?
I grow in Soustons (South-west of France), near the Antlantic Ocean.
Where are you currently living now?
I always live with my parents in Soustons.
What are your favourite local spots?
My favorite local spot is near my home at 15 min. This name is Waiteut.
Do you have any other favourite breaks?
I like also to go surfing in Hossegor,in Basque Country or Spain. But I love Mexican spots like Puerto Escondido, Pascuales, La ticla...
What breaks are on your bucket list?
Have you always bodysurfed?
Do you ride other surf craft?
I make Bodysurf when the waves are large and hollow. But sometimes I love surfing with my longboard or shortboards for carving.
How are bodysurfers viewed in your local line-up?
Bodysurf is democratized more and more.
What do you find cool and inspiring about bodysurfing?
For me, Bodysurf it's the fact of being able to "slip" on the waves and to feel the waves' forces.
What’s inspiring you in the water right now?
Where do you hope to take your bodysurfing over the next year?
For the next year, I would like to go in Mexico and Austalia.